Toy Soldier

 Whew!  

 I'd like to say that I have been sewing; I just haven't been finishing anything. 

 Literally.

  I have a vintage dress that I started in July that needs a hem, a silk blouse that needs a hem, a pair of cordory pants that got to hemming before being declared a wadder, and another pair of pants that need...well, a hem, but also a finished waistband.  

And of course, Halloween trumps all of those.  And hemming, apparently.

Fabric: cotton/nylon ripstop, (purchased on etsy)

Patterns: Oliver + S Fieldtrip Cargos & Oliver + S Sketchbook Shirt

Notions: 3/4" elastic and 1 random button for pants;

 7 buttons for shirt, plus patches from my dad's old uniform

Time to Complete: the ALCS championship and the first 3 games of the World Series

Notes:

First of all, there is probably nothing to say about either of these patterns that hasn't already been said 80 million times.  All I will say is that I sewed a size 5 in both shirt and pants, and while the shirt fits perfectly, the pants are a skoosh big.  But that's okay.  It's called growing room.

A couple of reviews noted that they added to the length in the shirt on the larger sizes, and while I didn't, and it was fine, I would definitely add to the length for my older son.

But the fabric, oh man.

First, I tried ording similar fabric from Fabric.com, but that turned out to be a cluster.

So I turned to esty, where I found the actual military fabric at half the price. (Score!)

The fabric is perfect, but I totally have to give props the army for developing fabric you can't pin.

Seriously.  My fine pins weren't strong enough to go through at an angle, and the cheap-y quilting pins were almost too thick to shove through. 

This stuff is sturdy as heck, and thanks to Elmer's glue sticks, 

my kid was super safe for trick-or-treating. 

 You know, in case of candy explosions or something.

E, after originally deciding he wasn't going trick-or-treating, 

declared pretty early on that he was just going to wear his BMX gear.

So you'd think I could go finish all those other projects now, right? Right.

Except game 5 is on upstairs right now, and I think that trumps hemming, too.

Go, Royals!

Polka Dot Granville

Pattern: Sewaholic Granville

Fabric: cotton batiste

Notions: fusible interfacing.  (I did not go the shirtmaking way.) 9 1/2" buttons.

Notes:
For this version, I cut size 10 through the chest and waist, and an 8 in the hips--my new usual.  And I straightened out the side seam shaping a bit.
 For the sleeves, since I already knew they'd need some help, I used my altered sleeve from the Oakridge blouse, and blended the two pattern pieces together. For what it's worth, the cap and bicep looked pretty similar to the size 12 in height and width. The sleeve cap curve was curvier, though.

It's worth (I guess) noting that I didn't use the sleeve placket included in the pattern. Instead I used the Threads placket, which I already rock at.  It took a bit to get figured out, but I own those suckers now. Honestly, I could put sleeve plackets on everything.

Unfortunately, it made the sleeve a little too long for the cuff, which called for a last minute teeny tiny pleat right before the underlap.  Which I steadfastly refused to take pictures of.  So there.
Swap out the placket at your own risk.

I flat felled all the seams, (except the armscyes), so the insides really do look nice.
Unfortunately, on the back panel, I trimmed the wrong seam allowance, and ended up having to press the seams toward the sides instead of the center back.

And that is just between you and me and anyone else lucky enough to notice.
(I'm betting we'll be a small, select group.)



Getting real life pictures proved difficult.  The "best" pictures turned out without using the flash.
I am including this only because I literally laughed out loud when I saw it.  I think this was right in the middle of a conversation about the flash settings, but it honestly may have been about anything.  Including whose turn it was to scoop poop in the back yard.

Also, it's been too hot to wear a long-sleeved shirt.  And by the time everyone is settled in the evening (after dinner, after playing, after BMX), the sun is setting, and I think, 'oh well, maybe tomorrow...", and then a week goes by.

These pictures were after we got home from an evening out, and I threw on the shirt for pictures.  Please know that I do not usually wear long-sleeved button-down shirts with shorts.

And this is what we got with the flash.  This picture was taken within 5 minutes of the one above, and we all know the sun doesn't set that fast.

In anycase, I like this shirt.
 I like the fabric, I like the pattern, I like all the little finicky parts of sewing a button-down shirt.  There are a couple of things I might want to tweak for the next-time, and there are a couple of wobbly sewing bits, but overall, this is a good shirt.

That'll do.

Out-of-Season Sewing

As far as I'm concerned, the only downside to sewing out of season is pictures. 

 I, for one, am perfectly fine catch-stitching warm layers while sitting in sweet, air-conditioned loveliness.  I'm fine steaming wool hems safe in my basement while tornado sirens whine outside.  I'm even fine ditching sewing projects to go swim or ride bikes, or road-trip for a couple weeks, because Lord knows, I'm not in a rush to finish.

But venturing outside in the hot, muggy, Missouri July in long layers is not something I'd rush to volunteer for.

Even the camera fogged up after two pictures outside.  True story.

Pattern: Butterick 6169

Fabric:  Theory High Risk Red wool coating,  acrylic lining from inherited stash

Notions: Atom red 18" separating zipper, medium weight weft interfacing, 1/4" shoulder pads and sleeve heads, each trimmed to thin a little more.

This was not my first rodeo with this pattern; the first version was in chambray, which I loved in theory, but in reality just felt a little limp.  So when I saw this sweet, soft wool online, I knew they would work well together.  

Again, I used the sewalong to add sleeve heads and bag the lining.

And you know, not being in a hurry, I went full force.  I block fused all the pieces, and when the shell was complete, catch-stitched all the seam allowances to the interfacing. That's a lot of seams.  

The lining is this funky stuff I inherited from my grandmother's stash.  I'd originally passed it up when we first started going through everything, but my mom spotted it and set it aside. It's a little creepy/charming, but it grows on you.   There were about 4 yards of it, and while originally I'd planned to use it with some green wool I have, I kind of like it here.  I don't know where it came from, but it's not without its faults--there were a couple misprints where the red wasn't aligned right, and double printed on one stripe and completely missed further down. Perhaps it was a factory second?  

Can you see the line of double printing?  Both misprints are in the sleeves.

When Kansas City had a garment district, you could go down to the factories and buy overstock yardage, remnants and trims, and I know that was something she liked to do.  This has kind of a nubbly texture, but is light-weight, like rayon, and holds a press nicely. I did do a burn test just for fun, and it melted, making a hard, black, irregular bead.  Some burn charts further classify acrylics, but I think we can just agree it's synthetic and call it a day, right?

In any case, I'm saving this coat for another day.  My youngest is looking forward to sweatpants and hot cocoa, and we'll just park this over there for awhile.  Maybe I'll work on a scarf to go with it.

Maritime Tee

It's summer, but it's honestly been the grayest, rainiest summer I can remember.

But it's also Missouri, so while it was rainy and cold one week, it was hot and humid and sticky the next week.  I can't think of too many places where it can honestly be too cold to go the pool one week, and too hot to go the next.

So let's just chalk up bad hair to the weather and move on.

Pattern: Liesl + Co Maritime tee

Fabric: "designer" cotton jersey from Girl Charlee

Notions: Emma Sew Keys knit stay tape for shoulders, knit interfacing for neckline facing

This is a great t-shirt pattern, and it reminds me of a similar shirt I bought at Gap earlier this year: wide boat neck, dropped shoulder seams, and split hems. 

All of which add up to super-comfortable.

Rear view with hair escaping from terrible pony tail

For the topstitching along the facing, I used contrasting thread with a single needle chain stitch on the coverstitch machine.

Um, yeah.  I've worn and washed this enough times since making it that the tag faded. (!)

I've recently started coating the lables with a little layer of Fray Check to see if that helps, but I clearly didn't do that here.

Close up of split hem detail--used the coverstitch here, too, since it was already set up...

This fabric, it should be noted, doesn't really stretch at all. 

Which I think actually may work better for this pattern than stretchy jersey.

I made a second version in bright green, and it's still sitting unfinished on the dressform, mostly because of the neckline.  I interfaced the facing, but not the top, which means one was stretchy for the top-stitching, while the other was not.  I'll let you think through how great that worked out for me.

It just needs  the sleeves and hem finished. 

And for me to decide if' I'm happy with the neckline. 

Other than that?  Definite love on the pattern.

The End of a Blue Period

Ballet Dancers in Blue

Edgar Degas

Don't get me wrong, I love blue.  And green.

But after all that blue and green for the wardrobe contest, it was really nice to sew something

in nice, happy, sunshiny yellow.

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Undercover Hood

Fabric: Theory rayon-blend ponte

Notions: knit interfacing for pocket

Construction notes:

I have  made this once before, and decided I wanted a summery sweatshirt for vacation plans we have coming up.  Because you know, summer sweatshirts.  

Last time I added 1" to the sleeve length, which I kept, but may not have been as necessary here.  This fabric has quite a bit more drape and stretch to it than my last version, which honestly, still gets pretty regular wear.

Can I just say this is the softest ponte ever?  I had originally purchased this with plans for a summer dress, but after sitting on it for a year, I ultimately decided I'd get more wear from it this way.

I am also pretty surprised it is still available.  The yellow is a pretty, soft, buttery yellow, which helps make it more wearable (at least on me...)

On this version, I used tricot interfacing to stabilize the pocket (in order to help match those stripes), and opted NOT to line the hood.  I thought it would weigh down the hood too much in this fabric, and to be honest, I liked the stripes.  

For construction, I used a serger on all seams, and a double needle on the coverstitch machine to hem the hood edge and attach the pocket.  I switched to a single-needle chain stitch along the neck edge to help the collar edge lay flat.

Also, I guess it's worth noting that I have an older version of this pattern, which has since been updated to include a couple more options.  I don't know if sizing has changed, but I made a small.

And while it looks kind of oversized and sloppy, it still fits pretty neatly under a light jacket.

And as for why I'm wearing a sweatshirt in the middle of May in Missouri, I have no freakin' idea. 

We've been having the coolest, wettest month; which is great for the garden,

but not if you're ready to go swimming.

the Sea Glass skirt

 Because sea glass is incredibly prevalent in the Midwest.

Pattern: Simplicity 2215

Fabric: cotton/rayon blend for skirt, cotton lawn for lining

Notions: invisible zip, hug-snug seam binding, interfacing for waistband, 2 snaps

This is the last of the items to complete for the Wardrobe Contest on PR, and it took me awhile to stop waffling on this skirt.  When I ordered this fabric, it was listed as great for tops, dresses or a even as a lining.  It does have a slight sheen, but a soft hand and great drape, and I just couldn't get past wanting to use it for a skirt.  

But also afraid it was a hair too thin for a skirt.

Lightbulb moment:

I realized I had some light sky blue cotton lawn that would make a nice, soft lining, that would also provide just a tiny bit of structure to those pleats.

(Did I mention I waffled on the pleats, too?  I briefly thought about just gathering a skirt, but in the end decided the pleats would be more interesting.)

The lining was not a great color match, but I decided no one would really see it anyway.

The colors here are a bit muted. That blue cotton is bright.

Okay, no big deal.

Until I went to get a zipper.

Which didn't match either color.

I picked as close as I could, and decided--it's invisible, it'll be fine.

Couldn't find a great match for serger thread, either.

And at this point, opted to screw all, and used aqua hug snug to finish seams.

And that's when I realized, this skirt was full on sea glass.

Honestly, it's probably by new most favorite skirt ever.

It's soft and swishy, but not poofy. The cotton lining feels amazing.

Also, I used two medium weight snaps on the waistband.

Why haven't I done this before?

They stay snapped, and they're not nearly as fiddly as a hook and eye.

This is the best rear-view I have right now, and I'm wearing it with a top I haven't yet reviewed for the contest.  Honestly, I'm still trying to decide if I like it enough as-is, or if I should take it in a bit at the sides.  We'll see. 

 I have um, 4 days to decide?  

Photobomber

 Today's photos are brought to you by motherhood.

All the glorious and unique sides of motherhood.

Don't tell me. He's pretending to be a zombie, right? Right.

These are probably the quickest photos of a garment ever taken.

1. I was trying to get them in before rain.

2.  My husband was 3 steps out the door to take our oldest to practice.

3. My youngest really wanted to be in the pictures with me.

And honestly, who would say no to that?

Someone who's forgotten said child is a ham, that's who.

Please, for all that's holy, tell me he's not actually mooning the camera. Please.

Pattern: Butterick 6168 

Fabric: cotton sateen

Notions: 22" invisible zip, interfacing, hook and eye

 I love you.  Now sit over there for a minute.  

Notes:

So, there is a sewalong for this dress here, and I honestly thought, nah, I got this.

And then I went and worked on that waistband, and had no idea which ends were up.  So yep, I checked it out.  It was helpful!  

Other than that, construction was pretty simple and straightforward.

It's worth noting I think I have a little extra ease there along the center back, and I'm not sure yet if it bothers me enough to fiddle with.  The zipper looks pretty good, and I'm not one to jump in on undoing that.

Fit-wise, I sewed a size 14, and seriously debated adding width to those sleeves.  I measured, and they were close, and ended up deciding that with a cap sleeve length, they'd be okay.  And they are.

Mostly.

As long as I'm well-behaved, they're fine. but God forbid I ever have to drive a school bus, though. 

I discovered this driving into work on Monday.  

Also what I discovered on Monday?  This dress does NOT go with a cardigan.

If you know me, you also know I probably own a cardigan in every color.

(This may be a teacher thing.)

BUT, this dress does not work with any of them.

The neck tab, which is so cute on its own, looked so wrong with a crew neck cardigan.

Maybe a v-neck would work better, but my mind was blown at this point.

I felt so...lost.

(That may be the saddest sentence ever written about one's self.)

Luckily, I rallied, checked my big girl panties, and went to work without one.

Moto 7, Gate 5

Pattern: Butterick 6169, Lisette moto jacket

Fabric: chambray from Fabric Recycles, cotton shirting for body lining, and rayon for sleeves

Notions: 18" separating zip, also from Fabric Recycles, and homemade shoulder pads

First worn: to BMX racing on Friday night.

What can I say? It got chilly after the sun went down.

Construction-wise, I made a size 14, and followed the sewalong here.  

I did not make any alterations, and the sleeves were an absolutely perfect length and width.

In the photos, it looks rather roomy unzipped, but I have to say it feels like it fits right.

In a fabric with more structure/less drape, it may not look as drapey.

Also, the fit is perfect when it is zipped, and isn't that the goal? 

Please note that all wrinkles are due to the jacket being balled up on my passenger seat most of the weekend.

But, you know, a good press and a hang in the closet, and all will be fine.

As versatile as I thought the chambray would be, I have to admit it looked vaguely...office-y.

So I added a plaid lining.

And a bright blue zipper.

And that's that!  I'm pleased with the way this turned out, and the directions are clear and concise.

Also, I should note that the pockets are teeny-tiny, but since all I'll use them for is a place to shove my car keys, I think they're fine.  

(If it's a problem, I can't imagine it would be too hard to add an interior pocket.)

And finally, after thinking things through, here's what I came up with for Me-Made-May:

I, Joanne, of www.bluebirdssinging.blogspot.com, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '15.  I endeavor to wear 1 me-made garment each day for the duration of May '15.  Additionally, I vow to revive 4 garments this month that would be worn more if there wasn't something slightly off with them.

Also, I'm giving myself permission not to photograph my daily outfits. 

Unless they're awesome, of course.

Flower to the People

My husband has this endearing habit of talking to me randomly while taking pictures, and shooting only when I respond.  You can only imagine the amazing faces he captured today.

Pattern: Sewaholic Alma

Fabric: cotton voile from Mood

Notions: invisible zip, lightweight interfacing

Notes:

Remember the hard time I had with my first Alma?  Yeah. This time I made size 10.

Problems solved.

I am a dork.

I did, though, add 2" to the length.  And I honestly don't think I'd want it any shorter.

I also stitched the facing down on the blouse back, and you'd never know from the busy print.

And that is all.  Honestly, this is a completely drama-free project.

All I'm saying is thank God there were no ill-placed flowers.

Three cheers for serendipity!

In the wardrobe contest lineup, I have 1 more completed top, that I may yet go back and tweak.

My sewer's choice items are nearly finished, and I just have one last item to start.

 I think I can do this!

Finally, I have yet to finalize my Me-Made-May pledge.  I'm currently waffling, not because I don't have enough to wear, and not because I don't think it's interesting and worthwhile, but more because I think at this point, I know where my strong and weak points are.  I think instead of focusing on wearing clothing, I should work on fixing clothing that's not quite right, so I do wear them more.

Still cogitating there, but it will come, I'm sure.

Simplicity 1467..and I covet this fabric

This is top #2 (I think), for the Wardrobe Contest.

And I loooovvve it.

The fabric is so soft, and the absolutely most perfect weight. Ever.

I bought it at Mood, and it's sold out now, but I wish I could still access how they described it, because wow.  It's listed on the invoice as a voile, and it's soft and drapey like a voile, yet thicker and opaque.  Sigh.  Its probably a good thing it's sold out; my family would definitely have something to say if everything I started wearing was made out of this fabric.

With the Butterick culottes.  And silly faces.

Also, apparently, a farmer's tan.

Fabric: cotton voile from Mood

Pattern: Simplicity 1467

Notions: two lonely buttons from the drawer, lightweight interfacing 

Notes:

I'm going to be honest; this is not a pattern I would normally choose.  I don't know if it's the styling on the front, the fact that it includes pull-on pants, or if I just never browse through the pattern catalogs.  And if I do flip through the book, I never ever look through the sportswear section.

Can I just say that this is not what my mind thinks of as 'sportswear'?

I was initially drawn to the top here, but the more I look at the other peices, the more I am drawn to them.  Not what I'd normally pick as 'me', but I'm not opposed, either.  Huh.

Maybe I need to stop being so judgmental.

The exposure is adjusted on these for detail, but the colors on the second are fairly accurate.

In any case, this pattern went together really easily.  As in, no alterations, and simple.

I like that the neckline and armscye facings are combined, and construction is simple and clean. 

The pattern suggests lightweight woven fabrics such as linen and crepe, or slinky fabrics, but not cotton voile.  And it's fine.  I made a version in a crisper gingham shirting, and it works, too.

And the back view. 

 Those buttons are purely decorative; my head is not so big they require unbuttoning when donning this shirt.

In completely unrelated news, it seems like a weird spring.  The tulips are done for the year, and the bachelor's buttons are coming in.  My pansies are still looking great, and the garden is loving all the rain we've had over the past week.  I actually wore this with a sweater, so these were probably the fastest pictures ever.

 It's hard to believe we're down to only 5 more weeks of school for the year!