Sunday, September 22, 2013

Exit Signs Shirt


My youngest son has already christened this the "Exit Signs Shirt".  He was playing in the button box while I was sewing this morning, and asked whose exit sign shirt I was making.  I guess the design looks like exit signs.  I'm down with that; I like exit signs.



I've been overthinking this shirt all week, and on Thursday, I got tired of thinking about it, and just jumped in. The body is from Simplicity 2060, but the sleeves are stolen straight from 2211, minus the sleeve band.  I've made a couple of shirts from the Itinerary dress pattern, and I don't like those sleeves.  For some reason, they just bug me--either I've set them in wrong each time, or they needed some alteration--they're fine when my arms are hanging loose, but any sort of movement and the whole yoke slides up.  And this was even after sewing the seam with a narrow allowance for a little more ease. ( I'm open to suggestions here if you've got 'em.)  Rather than dinking with bicep alteration, I just pirated the sleeves from the Market blouse, again minus the sleeve bands because they are ridiculously narrow.  My biceps lift children and cast-iron cookware; I don't know whose arms these are drafted for.  I would like to be able to say I took careful consideration to compare the cap heights and seam lines, but no, I just gathered the top as needed to fit the hole.  And we have functional arm-movement!  Hooray!

The armscye still may need to be dropped a smidge, but this works for now.


The buttons are from my inherited stash--they are Sears brand, and there were only 3 of the 4 remaining on the card.  They're 5/8" vs the 1/2" listed on the pattern, but really, what's an 1/8 of an inch between friends? Also, I would've sworn these buttons were red on the card, but they look like a pretty dead-on match for the fuschia/magenta/dark pinky-purple of the blouse.

Let's all just agree to not notice the first button hole is stitched twice, and the other two, not so much.

The fabic is Tina Givens voile, and it is soft and light.  I also bought this in a pale turquoise colorway, so I could actually have this exact shirt in two different colors...although that may be too much, even for me.

Anyway, easy sewing, easy shirt, short weekend, and I'm already plotting out the next 4 projects. : )

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

The Blueberry Picking Dress


So, Fall for Cotton? Done.  Did I fall?  Um, yes. 


This cotton is so soft and drapey.  Maybe it's softened with age?

I found it at an antique store a couple of weeks ago, and at a grand total of $3.50 for the lot, I went with it.  This print reminds me of blueberries, and I just feel like I should be out in the garden picking fruit.  Maybe barefoot, maybe not--only if the yard's been pooper-scooped recently.


Work?  No, I'll just supervise.


The Facts:

Fabric: 100% cotton, vintage, 3+ yards and 35" wide; ivory cotton lawn for bodice underlining
Pattern: Colette Parfait (gifted from Suzy in swap)
Notions: 4 7/8" white buttons (new), 2 1/2" clear buttons from stash, invisible zip
Total cost: $3.50 for fabric + $4.00 for white buttons


Construction notes:
  • I did a small bust adjustment to grade down to a B-cup courtesy of Sew L.A.
  • I graded from a six at the top of waistline to 8 at the bottom of the waistline, then to a 10 at the hips.
  • I underlined the bodice with ivory cotton voile, then slip-stitched the facings flat to the underlining
  • I did not sew buttonholes on pockets: they're not handy if they're buttoned shut
  • I used bigger buttons--7/8"--and 1/2" clear ones under tabs
  • I made top button hole on tab horizontal (no room for a vertical one)
  • I faced the hem with a 2" wide bias strip, then top-stitched it flat--the unhemmed skirt was exactly the length I wanted, so next time I will hopefully remember to lengthen the skirt pieces.
  • I could probably shorten the straps a smidge, I don't remember right now if I traced them at a six or an eight, but they could stand a little shortening
  • The six-gore skirt really worked well with the narrow fabric width!


 On a completely unrelated note, I always love browsing through catalogs, but I'm beginning to think that part of the reason I love catalog shopping so much is the pictures.  Those catalog models always seem to have such glamorous lives.
Wait.  Cool enough for stockings, but no coat needed?

How clean is that desk?  

And don't get me started on the Athleta catalog.  I just want to live wherever it is they shoot pictures.

I think it's not just the clothes (which don't get me wrong, they're fabulous), it's the whole life.  I think I'm as seduced by the backdrops as I am the actual clothes. I try to make a point to picture the clothes in my kitchen making mac and cheese, getting cough medicine at my local grocery store, or while waiting in the drive-thru as a little litmus test: is it the dress/skirt/pants/shirt I love, or is it just the imagined lifestyle?

In any case, here is how I really wear my clothes: 


Standing outside in the middle of street while my kids play...


...and getting super sweet hugs and loud wet kisses.


And I'm good with that.

Thursday, September 5, 2013

Fall for Cotton Plans

True story: I have never sewn a Colette pattern before, and honestly have been kind of hiding from them, for the sole reason that I don't want to have to do a Small Bust Adjustment.

I follow the Colette blog.  It's awesome.  I like their styling; it's pretty awesome too.  I even have the Colette Sewing Handbook, again, awesome.  But still haven't sewn a thing out of it.  My feeling has always been that they have a curvy fit model, and while I have curves, they are not those curves.

Until I got the Parfait pattern from Suzy, and thought, Hmm.




fabric detail: any guesses on approximate vintage?


The fabric is from a shopping weekend with my mom, dad, and youngest son a couple of weeks ago.  We spent the day browsing in antique stores, and in the basement of one, I found what looked to be vintage cotton, labeled 2+ yards for $2.50.  I like the colors, thought it would make a great gathered skirt, and really, for that price, why not.  Just as I was leaving, though, I spied the same fabric on a garment rack.  It turned out to be a half-finished smock, rather large sized and only a dollar, so I grabbed that too.  I'm not above cutting facings or small pieces out of other garments.  When I got home, I realized I actually had about 3 yards of approximately 36" fabric, and at least another yard in the half-finished sleeveless shirt.



I used this tutorial from Sew L.A. for the bodice modification, and honestly, it wasn't so bad.  In fact, I'm kind of impressed with myself.  I may or may not be secretly thinking about using this method to alter sleeves for my strong arms (ahem: big guns)  : )  Also, I'm in love with Swedish tracing paper.



Muslin for altered bodice

My muslin is pretty ugly for many reasons, but we're not getting technical on this.  It fits.  

I don't know if anyone else has this problem, but my dress form wears a slip.  Maybe its for modesty, but more likely its because she's clothed in some funky jersey-ish material that is kind of grippy, and not all that lovely to slide dresses over.  Sorry.  She's also broader across the back than I am, but I have her beat in the butt area.  So we're even.  

If we were taking score, that is.

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