37 and Stephen King

I had a birthday this week, which always calls for a little introspection.

When I was younger, I always imagined my life would be more glamorous.  Honestly, I also imagined I would have bigger boobs.  (Bigger hair and longer fingernails, too, but that's beside the point. There may have been shoulder pads in that fantasy, too.)   My hair hasn't lived up to expectations, but in the last month I've broken a dishwasher, cleaned a chimney, and fixed a toilet. So screw glamour, I have skillz.

I've also made this dress twice this month.  

The first was, well, a failure.  

I used a navy cotton/poly blend that was just too stiff for this pattern.  When I tried it on, my husband remarked that the sleeves stuck out like judges' robes.  And, considering I skipped a muslin, the waist was way too big, the neck was way too low, and there was just no recovering from that.  

The Details

Pattern: Simplicity 1801

Fabric: Joel Dewberry rayon (sooo not warm for November), and cotton lawn for underlining

Notions: 14" zipper and interfacing, as you do

Time to complete: eh, a couple of days, plus a couple more

First worn: to a conversation with Stephen King

Pattern alterations:

1) I raised the neckline about an inch, if not a squish more.  Holy hell.  Here's where bigger boobs may have come in handy.  All was cool if you were looking straight on, but the minute I leaned forward, it was a straight shot clear to my belly button.  For reference, the point of the V ended at the top of the bridge of my bra.  In theory, fine, but not a great look for work, yo.

2) Um, the waist band.  I cut a size 14, as that size was pretty close to my bust/waist measurements.  In the interest of clarity, that's 36" and 28" respectively.  When I couldn't figure out how the first version ended up so huge, I went back and measured the pieces; as drafted, for a 28" waist, the finish measurements produced a 32 1/2" waist band.  Who in the hell needs more than 4" of ease in a waist band, much less a  waistband that is sandwiched between a gathered top and skirt?!  And framed with loose gathered-y sleeves? 

I looked brick-shaped.  Like a brick-shaped judge.  With disappointing cleavage.

Not.Flattering.At.All.

Needless to say, I graded in about 1/2" on each side seam at the waist.

And switched to a drapier fabric.

back view

A- invisible zip insertion.

I give credit to a pretty good color match.

the inside scoop

I have exactly one picture of it on.

My beautiful sister with a signed copy of his new book, and me, squinty-eyed.

I meant for this to be my birthday dress, but it ended up being a Stephen King dress instead.

Which is cool.  I guess. 

In a way, I didn't know what to expect from Stephen King, either.

Which was coming out donned in a Royals hat...

...and leaving with a little bit of rock and roll.

It's pretty awesome getting old.

In the Pink

Work is, officially, still kicking my butt right now.  

But that doesn't mean I haven't been stealing minutes here and there to sew.

It just means those minutes are fewer and farther apart, and that sometimes, I choose to use those minutes to gork on the couch with Nutty Bars instead.

The back of this coat needs a belt/sash, but it's wearable for now.

This friend needed some loving, and I couldn't make him wait.  : )

The Details:

Pattern: Sewaholic Robson, minus the storm flaps, shortened by 8 inches, and with pockets raised by 1 inch.  Otherwise; Sewaholic Robson.  Sizewise, I cut a 10 through the shoulders/bust, and graded to an 8 at the waist and hips.

Fabric: hot pink wool and poly polka dot lining, both from Fabric Recycles, a local fabric store that buys and resells stashed fabric and notions

Notions: medium weight fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, 16 buttons, 2 spools of thread, copious amounts of steam, chocolate cake, yard beer

Time to complete: about 3 1/2 pounds (see above re: chocolate cake and yard beer)

Necessary tools: bamboo point turner, big block of cedar fencing and a couple of pieces of oak hardwood flooring scraps to use as clappers, steam, steam, and more steam, and a walking foot.

Sources referenced: The Singer Sewing Manual, by Mary Brooks Picken, copyright 1962 (ish), The Sewtionary, by Tasia St. Germain, copyright 2014.

So, about this coat: I decided I should try bound buttonholes.  

On a coat with eight button holes.

Try them, they're fun! my mom said.

Spoiler alert:

Fun! would've been one.  Maybe two.  Perhaps even three.

Eight was work.

 

Enter stage right: The Sewtionary.  I ordered this book in April or May, and the pictures are really nice.  I love that the samples she used to demonstrate techniques were on patterns I already owned, or at least was familiar with.  After a couple of tester buttonholes, I was good to go and knocked out the eight buttonholes pretty quickly.  Use lots of steam to press the bulk flat is the only tip I'd pass on that wasn't in the book--otherwise I'd give it 5 stars: great eye candy + informative + useful.

The problem came when I tried to make life harder for myself and line the coat.  I used the same basic coat pattern pieces, but cut the back piece on the fold, and folded in the excess seam allowance into an inverted box pleat.  Then attached the facing pieces to the shell, and attached it the jacket as you would in bagging a lining.

And, um, I hadn't yet cut the windows for the backs of those button holes.

I wish I could tell you I figured out a trick that may change your life, but really it was careful marking, cutting, and 2 evenings of handstitching on the couch while watching The Roosevelts on PBS.

Tip to change your life? Cut and press those windows before attaching the facing? Or handstitch the lining to the facing after the button holes are done?  Your guess is as good as mine, as I am not motivated right now to experiment with that.  Leave tips the comments, please!  

Easy pattern addition: a petersham ribbon hanging loop.

(Stole Repurposed the ribbon from a Boden shoe bag.)

Sleeve cuff tab!  

And finally, we all know it: Hidden polka dots are the next best thing to exposed polka dots.

Maybe even better.

I've got polka dots that you don't even know about.

Let's Do this Again

Simplicity 1419 again, that is.

Last time I mentioned I thought the neckline was too high; this time, I fixed it.

'Cause I can.

And I added stitching at the neckline...

'cause I can.

And in linen (wrinkly linen at that)...

'cause I can.

That it all.

Radio Silence

Holy cow!  School started about a month ago, and believe me when I say this is my first gasp at a full breath in about five weeks.  It's pretty usual for the start of a new school year to be pretty helter skelter, but this year in particular feels like I'm only holding on for dear life!  I'm not going into details here, mainly because a) that'd be like reliving all over again, b) that would take a whole 'nother bottle of wine, and c)  no one wants to read about someone complaining about work.  Isn't that why we read blogs?  So we don't have to think about work?

Since I was last here, this child, this one right up there, started preschool.  

How is that even possible?! 

This one is back for second grade.

(Sorry for the grainy phone pic, but that is seriously the best smile I've gotten photographic evidence of for quite some time...)

And me?  Perpetual 7th grade.

I'd apologize for the post-work, post-dinner, post-homework, the-sun-will-set-in-20-minute photos, but you know what they say, 

"You get what you get, and you don't throw a fit." 

Also? 

Life's too short.

The Details

Fabric: something cotton canvas-y I purchased at Hancock's about 8 years ago, tried to make into a failed skirt, and recently resurected. It may, honestly, be light home dec.

Pattern: Simplicity 1419, but just the skirt part. 

 I'd say I drafted a waistband, but really, I just cut a really big rectangle.

Notions: interfacing, a zip from the inherited stash

Notes:

Because of limited fabric, I knew I wouldn't be able to match across seamlines.  I didn't care so much about the sides, but thought it might be too much craziness across my butt.  I decided to cut the back pattern piece on the fold, and added an exposed zipper into a slot, basically following this tutorial.  

They had me at "The Full Monty".

Also, can I say I'm impressed I had a zipper that exactly matched that blue in my inherited stash?

(The zipper may look/feel/actually be 175% labratory created, but hey, it's basically a free skirt.)

The sweater is also a perfect match, but I can't claim that.  

I can claim, however, being asked by a student if I'd put it on backward.

Hmm.  

Kid must be working with my husband.

In other news, I've been working on a new coat for the last I don't know how long.

It's hot pink Sangria wool, not nearly as eye-blindingly bright as pictured below.

I'm including this "proof-of-life" photo in order to help motivate finishing.

 If you don't hear from me in a while, it's because I decided to try bound button holes, and haven't yet worked out if I should finish bagging the lining and THEN hand finish the button holes, or if I should attach at least 1/2 the 16 buttons before finishing the lining and buttonholes, or if I should finish the top stitching along the front, then cut buttonholes, and then finish the lining.  Feel free to weigh in. 

Also? I don't intend there to be nearly as many Legos on the floor 

when I finally get to wear it out of the house. 

Pineapple Yaletown Express and The Lost Art of Dress

First off, I don't generally gravitate toward floral prints; I think I was drawn by the name of this one, "Wild Beauty Pineapple".  It's okay, I fully admit to being drawn in by great packaging and clever product names.  (I may also judge books by the covers.)

The Details:

Pattern: Sewaholic Yaletown Blouse/Dress

Fabric: Art Gallery cotton voile 

Notions: lightweight sheer interfacing, thread, 1/4" elastic

Notes:

Construction was pretty straightforward, although I did get a bit confused about the directions for the elastic waist casing, so I just did it how I thought it should be done.  It works.  No biggie.

I'll definitely make this again, but next time, though, I might make the belt a little longer.  I wouldn't mind if it draped just a little longer when tied in a bow.  I also might cut the elastic a little longer, as I really don't need it to fit so closely at the waist. I would rather this sit a little lower than my natural waist, and tighter elastic wants to roll up to my smallest spot. Someone (who shall remain nameless) clearly has gone a long time without entertaining the idea of sit-ups and core strengthening.

Size-wise, I graded from a 10 at shoulders and bust to an 8 at the waist/hips, and I honestly think this may be the way to fix my Alma problems from earlier this year. (Plus leaving out the front darts.)  

Back to the Yaletown, these sleeves are my favorite yet!  They are very loosely gathered at the top, but cut to swing out at the hem--great range of motion and pretty, too.

Here's the belt un-bow tied, where I think I'd like it slightly longer. 

On a completely unrelated note, I am very distracted by those two yellow flowers front and center, but thankfully it's not so obvious on.  And lord knows, I could have done much worse on print placement. (!!!)

 Bow-tied belt.  Cute, but short.

Back view with blousing.

I also recently finished reading The Lost Art of Dress by Linda Przybyszewski. (I'm linking to Good Reads, there).  It was a really interesting non-fiction novel about the history of Home Economics both academically and professionally.  

The book is structured chronologically, beginning with its inception as part of the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture), outlines the rise of colleges of Home Economics as safe-havens for female scientists, and ending with its downfall during the 60's as a result of the Women's Movement.  (Why couldn't female chemists work in the chemistry department?)  

The author focuses on the women who addressed clothing design, primarily in the 40's-60's.  What I found most interesting was the theory that following the youthquake movement, there was more of a cultural focus on youth and appearing younger, and that fashion became more simple and youth-oriented.  'Sophisticated' styles lost ground, but also the cultural desire to be sophisticated lost out.  This is particularly interesting if you've ever gone shopping, and found yourself without a clothing section--or what I like to call the "I'm not 13, but I'm also not a grandma" section.  

It was a good, quick read, and I think relatable.  It is a truth, universally acknowledged, that no 13 and 37 year old females ever want to be caught in the same outfit at school.

State Fair Belcarra

Remember when you were a kid, and you were so excited for new school clothes, but you didn't actually wear them, because you were, like, saving them up for when school actually started?  

Maybe the excitement of new clothes outweighs the sadness of the end of summer?

Okay, I may be weird. 

(I have also recently told my own children not to wear their new school shoes out to play in the mud. That's not weird, though.  That's just being a mom.)  

This is all just a long way of saying that I have a lot of things finished, but not blogged, for the main reason that I haven't actually worn them.  Yet.

But today, I broke loose, and wore this one to the Missouri State Fair.

Sorry for the cloudy iphone pics.  The ferris wheel was a macaroni and cheese wheel, and each of the buckets were single-serve Easy Mac bowls.  See that macaroni smile in the middle? 

Part of the reason I broke this out today is that I'm unsure of it.

I liked the fabric when I bought it.

I liked the fabric when I was sewing it.

And when it was done, I thought, maybe-kinda, does that look like hospital wallpaper?

Hmm.

And that's all it took, one teeny-tiny question, to have me casting it the side-eye, trying to come up with some other mental image for this shirt.

Does that look like hospital wallpaper?

Sleeve tucks

Print-matching on the pocket like a boss. (or middle manager)

I'm not sure if it's a better mental image now to associate it with the smell of livestock, corn dogs, and lemonade, but at least we've broken through that initial wear.

The Details:

Pattern: Sewaholic Belcarra

Fabric: Art Gallery voile "Mojave Illuminated"

Notions: just thread

Time to complete: an evening, but only because this was my third version of this shirt

And since I've really got nothing new to add on construction, and because I'm in denial about going back to work on Wednesday, here are some more pictures of the fair.

Raindrops Saltspring

Finally, I finished my Saltspring Dress.  I don't have a whole lot of new or interesting things to say, as honestly, I think everyone on the planet has made this dress.  Unfortunately, I don't learn from other's experiences very well, so I went out and learned the exact same thing that everyone else on the planet already knows: this dress doesn't need the zipper.

Wait, didn't I read that somewhere? Yep.  I did. 

Several places, in fact.  And now I know, irrevocably, that they were right.  All of them.  After I dicked around with the zipper, installed it, picked it out, and reinstalled it correctly.  Sigh.

I look like I'm giving the death stare here, but I think I was just checking to see that the door to the garage had gotten closed.

Top Ten Things You Should Know About This Dress

10.  Yes, it's comfortable. Unshaven legs are our little secret.

 
9.  Yes, it is cool and breezy.

 
8.  Yes, I closed it in the car door 3 different times today while running errands.

 
7.  Yes, my youngest son did bike over the hem more than once as I was "helping" him on the bike.  (He says, "Hold my hand, Mom!" I say, "You're fine. I've got you.  I won't let you fall."  x100).

 
6.  Yes, the very same son told me I shouldn't wear it today, as someone might see me...and rip it off, because they don't like it.  I have no idea what that means.

 
5.  No, I do not take style advice from the men in my home.

 
4.  Yes, a strapless bra is required.  Although, it was a comfortable one.

 
3.  Yes, those straps are crazy long. They don't need to be that long.
Thank God they didn't get stuck in the door, too.

 
2.  Yes, you can expect to spend twenty minutes getting dressed just working on getting those ties situated not in the front, but kind of toward the back side of your shoulder, where there's still a cute bow, but not so that it's flopping around in your face all day.  If you dress after your spouse has left for work, you may debate the wisdom of asking a child to tie them, and if your child can even remember how to tie a bow tie after wearing flip-flops all summer.  You may also consider stopping by your mother's house to have HER fix the ties, before ultimately deciding you've spent way too long on something lame, knot them, tie them crappily, and call it good.

 
1.  No, you don't need the zipper.  It both goes on and comes off easily over the head.

Please admire my useless, but well-installed zipper.  I was also worried that the lining would show where the bloused part hangs loose, but there you go: proof, no lining show through.

The Details

Pattern: Sewaholic Saltspring Dress

Fabric: rayon challis, Valori Wells raindrops print

Notions: 14" invisible zipper, optional, and 1/4" elastic

Notes: I do like this dress, but I think I need a little help styling it.  (I actually searched pinterest for maxi dress outfits, and everything seemed to involve a jeans jacket.  Or a scarf.  With a jeans vest. Not happening in July, people.)  Granted, these pictures aren't the most flattering, as it had suffered through a long hard day prior to dusk and pictures.  And I did get a compliment on at the vet's office.  But I had just purchased a year's supply of heart pills and flea and tick treatment, so really, it was the least they could do.

That said, it was quick and easy, and I do like how comfortable it is.  I just think my next version will be knee length, with no zipper, and bra-strap style adjustable straps.  And I adjusted my pattern for a little more room across the chest, as it feels a little tight.  No biggie.

Bathing Bombshell

When Karen proposed a Sporty Summer Sewalong, I originally thought, Hmm. 

I've been trying to get back into running lately, and while that's not going so bad, the idea of sewing running clothes really didn't do anything for me.

Even though I've totally oogled everyone's amazing XYT and VNA tops and not to mention the duatholon shorts that are longer-than-booty-but-shorter than bike shorts.  Those do make me consider...perfect running shorts that are long enough to prevent rubbing, but short enough to be cooling are truly rare birds.

So while I may yet get there, this summer is about taking it slow, and enjoying it.

Can you consider basking dock-side a sport?  

I really liked this pattern last summer when Heather Lou released it, but ahem, didn't get to it.

When I saw it was part of the Perfect Pattern Parcel, I took the plunge (ha) and went for it.  

Now I just need to make up some of the other patterns, or this goes down as the most expensive pattern yet!

 Well, if lounging dock-side doesn't count, I could always dive in.

You know, with the ducks.

Details

Pattern: Closet Case Files Bombshell Swimsuit

Fabric: 1< yards nylon/spandex and >1 yard swim lining, both from Girl Charlee

Notions: swim cups and swimwear elastic (cotton) from Sew Sassy

Time to complete: about a week of evenings

Notes

First off, there is a great sewalong on the Heather's blog that completely walked me through each step.  That doesn't mean I still wasn't worried it wasn't going to be a hot mess up until I was able to try it on.

All that gathering is thick, and I was worried it wasn't looking very neat on the inside.

Second, the directions don't call for stretching the elastic at the bust line, but I did, and honestly, I probably could have stretched it a bit more.  As it is, it doesn't gape, but I still might feel a little more secure if it fit a little more snugly across the bust.  Granted, I don't have a lot to fill out the top. That may not be a problem for others.  : )

Third, the directions call for using a zig-zag stitch for topstitching the elastic in place, but I used my coverstitch instead.  It did turn out very nice looking, except full disclosure: I could have stitched closer to the inside edge of the elastic, as it kind of tends to flip out.  Totally my own fault, though, as she clearly explains that in her directions.

Oh, and I added swim cups by sewing them directly to the inside of the lining.  An extra layer there never hurt anybody, if you know what I'm saying.

In any case, it is very comfortable, and I feel secure and sexy in it.

And isn't that what we look for in swim suits? 

The Birds and the Bees Dress

Okay, so I just like how this picture looked with a filter.  It reminds me of heat, grittiness, snapping peas, and life before air conditioning. 

All of the above is true, except I have air conditioning.  Sweet, sweet air conditioning.

So my first move in giving up was to make something completely random.  

I chose a random pattern from the stash, and some material I had purchased with good intentions that had long since lost their way.

Pay no attention to the unfortunate flower placement here.

 Details:

Pattern: Simplicity 2059 Lisette Contintental dress (view A) (OOP)
ETA: still availabe for purchase here

Fabric: 2 yardsTula Pink Birds and Bees cotton voile

Notions: thread

Time to complete: a couple hours here and there

Back view in action/inaction/deep discussion

Notes:

This is a pretty simple dress with a gathered neckline at the front, and 3/8" bound neckline and armscyes. I originally ordered this fabric because I loved the colors, but when it arrived, I wasn't as excited by the print. Desperate for something fun to sew, I grabbed it and decided it would make a great summer sundress. Unfortunately, I needed an additional 1/4 yard to make the dress full length, so I had to fudge a bit.  

I ended up having to cut the dress about 3" short, then added the length back on with a doubled band cut on the lengthwise grain.  It ended up working well, though, because the extra weight helps hold down the skirt from random wind gusts and exuberant floor vents. You can just barely see the seam line there at the bottom.

I used French seams on the sides and shoulder seams, if only because I like to make it difficult to figure out whether I have it on inside out or not.  Please tell me I'm not the only one who struggles with this at times.  

I am particularly proud of how the binding turned out.  After attaching the front, I hand basted the binding closed, which made all the difference.  The last time I made this I cut it off into blouse length, and while no one else ever noticed, I never liked how sloppy the inside of the binding was.  Warning, excess binding pictures ahead: 

Also, (gasp) I did not line this dress.  Yes, it's voile, but the print is busy enough that you can't see my polkadot underwear through it.  Also, who wants a lining when it's 92 degrees out with 70% humidity? One layer of voile is the next best thing to nakedness.  (See what I mean about not wanting to get dressed?)

The belt is just a self-fabric tie, and I still plan on adding thread chains for belt carriers, but that will be a perfect sitting-on-the-porch-outside-while-the-boys-ride-bikes activity.

Without the belt, it's kind of a swingy a-line dress.  I'll be honest, it reminds me of a teacher I used to work with who wore muumuus.  Not sure I can rock that look, but here's what it looks like:

And just in case you were wondering...

 Birds...


and bees

So, how is your summer going?  How do you handle not wanting to sew what you actually wear?

 Do you find places to wear what you want to sew, or do you just go ahead and wear it, even if you're the only mom at soccer camp in a dress?