A Perfect Alma* in 15, Maybe 16, Easy Steps

*Perfect being exactly what I had pictured in my mind.

1. Make size 8 in fashion fabric, adding 2" to hem, based on pattern reviews.  Realize it's too tight to raise arms comfortably. Curse.
2. Compare back shoulder on pattern to well fitting blouse: realize it's 1/2" too short for comfort.  
3. Look at pattern.  Size 10 is just right across the back.  Hmm.  Recall previous problems with sewing all long sleeved blouses. Decide it was also unflatteringly tight across belly, muslin entire size 10.
4. Laugh at ridiculously large purple gingham muslin. Try again.
5. Grade from 10 at back shoulder and front high bust through the armscye, using 8 for bottom of armscye and below. Keep 2" added length. Straighten out side seam shaping. Muslin that in badly dyed green plaid. Omit zipper, because it can slide over head.

   

   altered armscye

   
   

   

   straightened side seam

6. Ah, much better arm movement.  Except--tidal pool thing going on with front when arms raised over head. Fabric rushes up with arm tide movement, then gets stuck in one giant fold above breasts when arms lowered.  Yank down front; muse for a while.  



Add caption

7. Pick top ends of front darts so fabric doesn't high-center across bust.  Raise arms, then lower: Success!  Lower dart top by two inches on pattern. 
8. Critically study sleeves and arms.  Self-diagnose slightly forward shoulders. Rotate sleeve cap to provide more ease at front of shoulder.  Decide it was better before.
9. Go to bookstore and buy fitting guide. Read that perfect fit may need to be compromised for ease of movement.  Remember that writing on whiteboard in front of children is a job requirement.  Cut into 2nd fashion fabric with bodice as planned.
        
10. Test fit.  Decide to deepen back darts by 1/4" each, resulting in removing 1" of fabric across back waist.  Add zipper, noting it is much easier this time with straight-er side seams.  Test fit, do happy dance.  Mark back dart alteration on pattern.  

    

    back view with deepened darts

11. Muse on using sleeve as originally drafted vs. one with ease shifted 1/4" toward front.  Realize that last of tracing paper was used on tracing size 10 bodice, and cannot retrace sleeve pattern. Decide to go with altered draft. Perhaps issues were with construction, not pattern.
12. Nope, sleeve still not great.  Realize should have used a size 10 sleeve, but too late now.  Fudge armscye seams by sewing shallower allowances.  Not perfect, but still not great. Settle for just OK.
13. Finish shirt with additional top-stitching, and narrow hem.
    
14. Retrace size 10 sleeve for next iteration.
15. Go sew knits for while.
16. (Optional) Pose ninja/gangsta style for pictures with locals.

Just the Facts:

Pattern: Sewaholic Alma Blouse

Fabric: Cotton/hemp blend purchased at the amazing Kaplan's over the summer

Notions: interfacing for collar facing, invisible zip, knit stabilizer for zipper opening

Time to complete: It's a good thing I don't pay myself by the hour.  Time spent in Research and Development always pays off in the end, though, right?

Bonus: that invisible side zip? Rates a solid A on the Erin McKean Dress A Day Zipper Grading System.  Boo-yah.

The 64 Dollar Sweatshirt

Because sometimes, you just want a reeallly nice sweatshirt.  Right?

I'm laughing at some of  these are truly terrible pictures! 

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Undercover Hood
Fabric: Amazingly-luscious double-faced cotton knit, sweatshirt weight, and obviously knitted by angels or virgins, or virgin angels, a Christmas gift from my mom and purchased at Kaplan's Fabric, where upon I had a lovely conversation with Alan, the owner, about discounts, asking, and Mick Jagger's autograph.
Notions: None.  Well, scrap jersey for hood lining.
Time to complete: 2 evenings, including time spent petting fabric

Warning: inside photos at 9:30 at night with overhead only lighting.  Sorry.

Construction Notes:
Not much to say here; this is rated a 'rookie' pattern, and it was pretty simple and straightforward.  I didn't even read the instructions, because honestly, if you've sewn a t-shirt, you've got this down.  I've never sewn with these patterns before, and I do want to add that it is a pretty nice deal.  I took advantage of the sale at the beginning of the month, not really knowing quite what to expect, and was pleasantly surprised.  First off, shipping (from NZ) is included in the price of the pattern.  Second, these are printed on nice heavy kraft-paper-ish sheets, so no fussy faffing about with tissue.  I DID trace it off anyway, because at this point, I know how much it sucks to cut an $18 pattern to the wrong size. (Renfrew, I'm looking at you.)

I swear we tried every variation of flash, no flash, fill flash, full-frontal flash--wait, not that one.

I also made a muslin, because did I mention this fabric was spun at the fingertips of immortals? [Must.Not.Screw.Up.Angel.Fabric.]  I swear, I wish Google had a Feel-o-vision app or something. When I finally wear this out of the house, I'm afraid I'm going to demand that everyone feel my shirt.  That could be bad...

Anyway, muslin-fabric-akin-to-shards-of-glass aside, I traced and cut a size SMALL.  This seemed not quite right, as XS matched my bust measurement, but my waist and hips matched the next size up.  (Sizing runs XXS to L; I typically wear an M in RTW).  I did not grade for a closer fit, because honestly, a snug fitting sweatshirt does not sound like my kind of fun.  With the muslin, I did decide to add 1" to the lengths of the sleeves.  I've historically struggled with monkey-arm syndrome, and absolutely HATE sleeves that are a hair too short.  Plus, it's a sweatshirt, and you're supposed to be able to drag your hair into a ponytail without flashing wrist bones, right?  I also changed up some construction steps, and added some extra in, because I'm like that.  Here goes:

• I attached the pocket before attaching the sleeves to front.  (I'm a rebel--not really.)
• I bar-tacked those pocket corners; am I the only person whose pockets rip there?
• I encased the hood/neckline seam in binding, and stitched it flat to the shirt.  A $64.00 sweatshirt does not have a serged seam showing front and center.

Other than that, I used my serger for everything here, (3/8" seam allowances), except where I didn't.  I used the coverstitch machine for attaching the pocket and top-stitching the hood, and my plain-ole regular machine for the bar tacks on the pocket corners.

Accidental stripe matching is surely a side effect of magical fabric.

Sorry for the truly terrible pictures, I'm sure you get the idea that I may never actually take this off again.  I hope everyone had a wonderful holiday!  We did, and I've been enjoying every minute of winter break. This is actually my second completed sewing project, my Alma blouse still needs photographing, so hopefully I will get that up sometime before the year ends. : )

Just in case I don't, have a wonderful New Year's, and I'll catch you on the other side!

Minoru, Minoru, Minoru

 

Can I tell you how many times I've wanted this finished already, either to wear, or to work on something else?  This is when the crazy happens, and I tend to take short cuts in order to be done that I don't end up appreciating in the long run.  Luckily, it was a busy month, and life itself kept me in check.  And, I got sick. Twice.

I actually started wearing this work on Wednesday, but couldn't get semi-decent pictures until today, as it is dark when I go to work, and dark again on my drive home.  These were taken at about 3:30, and you can see how long my shadow is already...plus, it was 17 degrees outside ( -8 C, if that's your thing) and we decided not to linger over these.

The fabric is something inherited from Grandma's stash. It may be some sort of wool/acrylic/poly-something blend?  I don't know.  I machine washed it, and it came out fine, if not slightly static-y.  The underside is coated with something that makes water bead up, and the top is slightly fuzzy like mohair. I used a double layer of silk organza as a press cloth, and my, but it does press nicely. 60" wide, and I had exactly what the pattern called for, and a little left over.  I can only assume she had planned to use this for a coat as well.  At this point, I realize I could attempt to do a burn test, but my excuse is that I currently have a child with a fear of house fires, and just don't want to send him into therapy. Yet.

mid-construction and hanging threads

Hanging loop and tag

The lining is flannel-backed Kasha satin from Vogue fabrics.  I ordered Ivory, as my fabric is ivory, but wasn't expecting to end up with two completely different shades of ivory.  I ordered ivory zippers as well, and they were the exact right shade.  Hmm.  Personally, I would call this more of a 'blush' color, but it works.  I additionally thought about adding Thinsulate, but decided it would be too bulky.

The zippers were a small problem.  I had to order them, and for the life of me couldn't find a matching pair in both a closed end and a separating zipper.  So I ordered two separating, and tacked the shorter one closed at the end.  Also, the pattern calls for an 18" zipper for the hood, but I'd read a couple people note that their opening was too big for the zipper, so I purchased a 20" zipper, and it worked just fine.

I totally used the sew-along pages when working on this. I even researched pockets for the front, and went back and forth on them.  I downloaded Karen's pockets, played with them, stitched the pleat flat, and gave up.  I actually like the way the plain front looks.  (Although it is tough to break a pocket habit)

On a completely unrelated note: Every time I pressed a seam, I wished I had already made a new ironing board cover.  I also wanted new pajama pants to sew in, but I stayed faithful and didn't commit project adultery.

Pattern: Sewaholic Minoru
Fabric: inherited wool/acrylic/poly? blend; Kasha lining (from Vogue Fabrics)
Notions: 20" and 28" separating zippers--I paid the dollar to have the 28" one shortened to the correct length, and tacked the shorter one shut; 2" wide elastic in cuffs and waist
Time to complete: longer than I'd have liked; I had a birthday in the middle of making this, but I don't think I overly aged in the process
Pattern changes: I lined the hood. And that's it.

This picture cracks me up, mostly because of the ninja window cling I'd forgotten 

was stuck on the edge of the mirror.

Planet Money Makes a T-Shirt

 Planet Money Makes a T-Shirt

Just in case anyone missed it (I can't be the only NPR junkie on the web), this is an interesting and informative piece about the garment industry.  Planet Money used a Kickstarter campaign to fund production of a t-shirt, in order to follow a typical garment from cotton seed through shipping.

GMO cotton seeds are grown in Mississippi, shipped to Indonesia to be spun into yarn and knitted, then to Bangladesh and Cambodia for production, and back to the US for sale.  (These are already sold, but you can buy more here.)

Best quote ever? "I imagine they are fat people, because the shirts that we make are immense."

Did you see this?  What do you think?