A Perfect Alma* in 15, Maybe 16, Easy Steps

*Perfect being exactly what I had pictured in my mind.

1. Make size 8 in fashion fabric, adding 2" to hem, based on pattern reviews.  Realize it's too tight to raise arms comfortably. Curse.
2. Compare back shoulder on pattern to well fitting blouse: realize it's 1/2" too short for comfort.  
3. Look at pattern.  Size 10 is just right across the back.  Hmm.  Recall previous problems with sewing all long sleeved blouses. Decide it was also unflatteringly tight across belly, muslin entire size 10.
4. Laugh at ridiculously large purple gingham muslin. Try again.
5. Grade from 10 at back shoulder and front high bust through the armscye, using 8 for bottom of armscye and below. Keep 2" added length. Straighten out side seam shaping. Muslin that in badly dyed green plaid. Omit zipper, because it can slide over head.

   

   altered armscye

   
   

   

   straightened side seam

6. Ah, much better arm movement.  Except--tidal pool thing going on with front when arms raised over head. Fabric rushes up with arm tide movement, then gets stuck in one giant fold above breasts when arms lowered.  Yank down front; muse for a while.  



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7. Pick top ends of front darts so fabric doesn't high-center across bust.  Raise arms, then lower: Success!  Lower dart top by two inches on pattern. 
8. Critically study sleeves and arms.  Self-diagnose slightly forward shoulders. Rotate sleeve cap to provide more ease at front of shoulder.  Decide it was better before.
9. Go to bookstore and buy fitting guide. Read that perfect fit may need to be compromised for ease of movement.  Remember that writing on whiteboard in front of children is a job requirement.  Cut into 2nd fashion fabric with bodice as planned.
        
10. Test fit.  Decide to deepen back darts by 1/4" each, resulting in removing 1" of fabric across back waist.  Add zipper, noting it is much easier this time with straight-er side seams.  Test fit, do happy dance.  Mark back dart alteration on pattern.  

    

    back view with deepened darts

11. Muse on using sleeve as originally drafted vs. one with ease shifted 1/4" toward front.  Realize that last of tracing paper was used on tracing size 10 bodice, and cannot retrace sleeve pattern. Decide to go with altered draft. Perhaps issues were with construction, not pattern.
12. Nope, sleeve still not great.  Realize should have used a size 10 sleeve, but too late now.  Fudge armscye seams by sewing shallower allowances.  Not perfect, but still not great. Settle for just OK.
13. Finish shirt with additional top-stitching, and narrow hem.
    
14. Retrace size 10 sleeve for next iteration.
15. Go sew knits for while.
16. (Optional) Pose ninja/gangsta style for pictures with locals.

Just the Facts:

Pattern: Sewaholic Alma Blouse

Fabric: Cotton/hemp blend purchased at the amazing Kaplan's over the summer

Notions: interfacing for collar facing, invisible zip, knit stabilizer for zipper opening

Time to complete: It's a good thing I don't pay myself by the hour.  Time spent in Research and Development always pays off in the end, though, right?

Bonus: that invisible side zip? Rates a solid A on the Erin McKean Dress A Day Zipper Grading System.  Boo-yah.