My Kingdom for a Button

I am ashamed to admit that this skirt has sat in my UFO pile for over a year, and all it really needed was the button.  Well, that and the button hole.  I resolved not to go into the new year with a bunch of UFO's hanging (flying?) overhead, and while washing fabric for what I really wanted to sew, resolved to suck it up, grit my teeth, and jump in with whatever it took.

This was one of my first experiences with a Burda Style printed pattern, and it has everything you love and hate about the Burda pattern experience in a convenient, no tape necessary format--great style, interesting details, and vague/poorly worded directions.  It should have been a clue when the envelope called for a 6" zipper and a button.  Did you catch that?  A button.  What size?  I guess that was for Burda to know, and me to find out.

The Facts:

Pattern: Burda Style 7252
Fabric: lightweight ivory wool, ivory bemberg lining
Notions: 6" zipper, interfacing for waistband, 2" button, rayon seam binding for hem, 3 hooks*
Time to Complete: 1 year, 2 months, most of which were spent folded in time-out the UFO pile.

After searching and searching for an appropriate sized button to fill the band, I ended up at the last minute finding one at Kaplan's.  At 1 3/8", it was the perfect combo of size and color.  Of course, though, the largest buttonhole template I have is 1 1/8".  Sigh. So, I dug out the instruction manual on how to make a buttonhole for a larger sized button.

In case you're wondering, you do 1/2 the button hole, like a "U", readjust the placement, and then do the other "U".  It was tense.

And there's the problem, right there.  After spending all that time in the waiting room, it has grown snug.  Clearly, it's the skirt's fault for shrinking, and not mine for growing, but one of us is going to need to start running again if we plan to continue this relationship.  

Also, for pictures, I added 2 hooks and thread-chain eyes at the top and point of the overlap, but it clearly needs a little help there at the bottom of the overlap to help it lay flat.  Me minus 5 pounds would help, or I could scooch the button a smidge.  

We'll see which actually happens first.

All that aside, I'm not sure how comfortable I feel in this skirt.  I realize the directions have you invisibly stitch those two under pleats together to conceal the slot zipper opening, and I chose to forgo that, but I feel like this skirt draws attention to my rear.  Unnecessary attention?

Also, it is lined, but you can still clearly see my sweater through the material in the top photo.  Am I being too picky?  I would normally solve that by not tucking things in, but I feel like the whole point of this skirt is to show off the waist.  Add that to the uncomfortable list, too--the waist.  I'm always slightly neurotic that I look like Ed Grimley in things that sit at my natural waist, and I tend to overcompensate with un-tucking.

Looking at these pictures helps, but is there a cure for the Ed Grimley's? 

Or do I just let this one go?

When Life Gives You Skinny Jeans, Fight Back

 According to a completely unscientific and most likely inaccurate poll performed just last week, less than 5% of middleschoolers actually wear pants.*

Add to this a recent (well, a couple of months ago) horrific shopping excursion for said pants, and one can only come to the conclusion that I live in a pants desert.

After shopping on line, even Boden had let me down, with my options being narrowly defined as "straight", "skinny", or God-forbid: "super skinny".  

Fine.  I'll buy your straight leg pants, but I'm not through.  

I'm sure there's a pattern out there somewhere for what I want.

The Facts:

Pattern: Sewaholic Thurlow

Fabric: Kaufman Ibiza cotton/spandex twill, from Fabric.com, + leftover cotton scraps for facings and 

pockets

Notions: 9" zipper, 1 black 3/4" button, 1 clear button, interfacing

The details:

Uh, actually, I made these shorts last summer, and spent some time dinking with the fit then.  At that time, I ended up adding length to the crotch at the back inseam.  On these, in stretch fabric, they were huge, and I ended up taking in the inseams by about 1/2", and also the outer leg seam by about the same.  That may not have been the right thing to do, as they might have stretched a bit as I sewed them, and they're a bit snug now that they've been washed again.  

I top-stitched the darts and around the back welt pockets, as well as the inseam and along the hip to just below the pockets, because I wanted a more casual look to wear with sneakers.  I also top-stitched the waistband, and went with a regular button front rather than a concealed hook.

And I added a 7th belt loop right at the center back.  And serged off the the back extension and top-stitched that seam, too.  But that's it, really.  

Also, those wrinkles under the butt drove me nuts for about a week. I think they're there for movement, but I'm open to suggestions on what to fix for the next pair.  Also, is that rear seam too snug?  It doesn't FEEL snug...but like I said before, give me free tips, please.  I ask my husband, and just get, "Looks great."

Hmm.

Verdict?  They're not perfect, but they'll do.  

"Oh, good.  The trash men are here."

*Data was obtained by frequency count of students walking past my classroom in the hall after dismissal, wearing pants that were neither leggings nor jeans.  For the purpose of this study, sweats and track pants were also excluded.  As were shorts, because that's ridiculous.  It's January in Missouri, people.

Estimated sample size is about 250 students; approximately 5 met the criteria defined for 'pants'.

** I like skinny and straight leg styles, too, but a person craves a little variety in her leg styles, right?  Also, full disclaimer: Not all shirts work with skinny jeans.  Or if you plan to wear knee socks.

A Perfect Alma* in 15, Maybe 16, Easy Steps

*Perfect being exactly what I had pictured in my mind.

1. Make size 8 in fashion fabric, adding 2" to hem, based on pattern reviews.  Realize it's too tight to raise arms comfortably. Curse.
2. Compare back shoulder on pattern to well fitting blouse: realize it's 1/2" too short for comfort.  
3. Look at pattern.  Size 10 is just right across the back.  Hmm.  Recall previous problems with sewing all long sleeved blouses. Decide it was also unflatteringly tight across belly, muslin entire size 10.
4. Laugh at ridiculously large purple gingham muslin. Try again.
5. Grade from 10 at back shoulder and front high bust through the armscye, using 8 for bottom of armscye and below. Keep 2" added length. Straighten out side seam shaping. Muslin that in badly dyed green plaid. Omit zipper, because it can slide over head.

   

   altered armscye

   
   

   

   straightened side seam

6. Ah, much better arm movement.  Except--tidal pool thing going on with front when arms raised over head. Fabric rushes up with arm tide movement, then gets stuck in one giant fold above breasts when arms lowered.  Yank down front; muse for a while.  



Add caption

7. Pick top ends of front darts so fabric doesn't high-center across bust.  Raise arms, then lower: Success!  Lower dart top by two inches on pattern. 
8. Critically study sleeves and arms.  Self-diagnose slightly forward shoulders. Rotate sleeve cap to provide more ease at front of shoulder.  Decide it was better before.
9. Go to bookstore and buy fitting guide. Read that perfect fit may need to be compromised for ease of movement.  Remember that writing on whiteboard in front of children is a job requirement.  Cut into 2nd fashion fabric with bodice as planned.
        
10. Test fit.  Decide to deepen back darts by 1/4" each, resulting in removing 1" of fabric across back waist.  Add zipper, noting it is much easier this time with straight-er side seams.  Test fit, do happy dance.  Mark back dart alteration on pattern.  

    

    back view with deepened darts

11. Muse on using sleeve as originally drafted vs. one with ease shifted 1/4" toward front.  Realize that last of tracing paper was used on tracing size 10 bodice, and cannot retrace sleeve pattern. Decide to go with altered draft. Perhaps issues were with construction, not pattern.
12. Nope, sleeve still not great.  Realize should have used a size 10 sleeve, but too late now.  Fudge armscye seams by sewing shallower allowances.  Not perfect, but still not great. Settle for just OK.
13. Finish shirt with additional top-stitching, and narrow hem.
    
14. Retrace size 10 sleeve for next iteration.
15. Go sew knits for while.
16. (Optional) Pose ninja/gangsta style for pictures with locals.

Just the Facts:

Pattern: Sewaholic Alma Blouse

Fabric: Cotton/hemp blend purchased at the amazing Kaplan's over the summer

Notions: interfacing for collar facing, invisible zip, knit stabilizer for zipper opening

Time to complete: It's a good thing I don't pay myself by the hour.  Time spent in Research and Development always pays off in the end, though, right?

Bonus: that invisible side zip? Rates a solid A on the Erin McKean Dress A Day Zipper Grading System.  Boo-yah.

The 64 Dollar Sweatshirt

Because sometimes, you just want a reeallly nice sweatshirt.  Right?

I'm laughing at some of  these are truly terrible pictures! 

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Undercover Hood
Fabric: Amazingly-luscious double-faced cotton knit, sweatshirt weight, and obviously knitted by angels or virgins, or virgin angels, a Christmas gift from my mom and purchased at Kaplan's Fabric, where upon I had a lovely conversation with Alan, the owner, about discounts, asking, and Mick Jagger's autograph.
Notions: None.  Well, scrap jersey for hood lining.
Time to complete: 2 evenings, including time spent petting fabric

Warning: inside photos at 9:30 at night with overhead only lighting.  Sorry.

Construction Notes:
Not much to say here; this is rated a 'rookie' pattern, and it was pretty simple and straightforward.  I didn't even read the instructions, because honestly, if you've sewn a t-shirt, you've got this down.  I've never sewn with these patterns before, and I do want to add that it is a pretty nice deal.  I took advantage of the sale at the beginning of the month, not really knowing quite what to expect, and was pleasantly surprised.  First off, shipping (from NZ) is included in the price of the pattern.  Second, these are printed on nice heavy kraft-paper-ish sheets, so no fussy faffing about with tissue.  I DID trace it off anyway, because at this point, I know how much it sucks to cut an $18 pattern to the wrong size. (Renfrew, I'm looking at you.)

I swear we tried every variation of flash, no flash, fill flash, full-frontal flash--wait, not that one.

I also made a muslin, because did I mention this fabric was spun at the fingertips of immortals? [Must.Not.Screw.Up.Angel.Fabric.]  I swear, I wish Google had a Feel-o-vision app or something. When I finally wear this out of the house, I'm afraid I'm going to demand that everyone feel my shirt.  That could be bad...

Anyway, muslin-fabric-akin-to-shards-of-glass aside, I traced and cut a size SMALL.  This seemed not quite right, as XS matched my bust measurement, but my waist and hips matched the next size up.  (Sizing runs XXS to L; I typically wear an M in RTW).  I did not grade for a closer fit, because honestly, a snug fitting sweatshirt does not sound like my kind of fun.  With the muslin, I did decide to add 1" to the lengths of the sleeves.  I've historically struggled with monkey-arm syndrome, and absolutely HATE sleeves that are a hair too short.  Plus, it's a sweatshirt, and you're supposed to be able to drag your hair into a ponytail without flashing wrist bones, right?  I also changed up some construction steps, and added some extra in, because I'm like that.  Here goes:

• I attached the pocket before attaching the sleeves to front.  (I'm a rebel--not really.)
• I bar-tacked those pocket corners; am I the only person whose pockets rip there?
• I encased the hood/neckline seam in binding, and stitched it flat to the shirt.  A $64.00 sweatshirt does not have a serged seam showing front and center.

Other than that, I used my serger for everything here, (3/8" seam allowances), except where I didn't.  I used the coverstitch machine for attaching the pocket and top-stitching the hood, and my plain-ole regular machine for the bar tacks on the pocket corners.

Accidental stripe matching is surely a side effect of magical fabric.

Sorry for the truly terrible pictures, I'm sure you get the idea that I may never actually take this off again.  I hope everyone had a wonderful holiday!  We did, and I've been enjoying every minute of winter break. This is actually my second completed sewing project, my Alma blouse still needs photographing, so hopefully I will get that up sometime before the year ends. : )

Just in case I don't, have a wonderful New Year's, and I'll catch you on the other side!