Hulk Arms, meet Ms. MoneyPenny

Pattern: Sewaholic Oakridge

Fabric: cotton/rayon blend from Georgeous Fabrics

Notions: pro-weft supreme light interfacing, 7 buttons, time + patience

3 muslins later, I have come to the realization I have hulk arms.  

To be fair, I always have problems with woven shirts.  They always feel tight across my arms and shoulders, and although they look nice when my arms are loose, the truth is, I need my arms in day-to-day life.  I write on chalkboards, (well, whiteboards), I carry loads of laundry, I dig things out of ridiculously awkward places, I hug my family, I cook dinner, and sometimes I dance (badly).

Well, one of us is looking at the camera...

Last year I struggled with getting the Alma pattern to fit, and I might be ready to go back to it. 

 Here's what I did on this one:

1.  raised bust dart 1/2 inch.  

Easy peasy.  I may have been able to raise it up even further, but I went conserative there.

2.  graded from a 10 at the bust AND waist, to an 8 at the hips.  

I originally tried an 8 at the waist, too, but the curve was a little too steep, and it looked nicer and slightly more relaxed with a 10 at the waist.

3.  I raised the sleeve cap heighth by 5/8".  

Can I tell you that there are a million and two tutorials on eliminating sleeve cap ease, but try googling "adding sleeve cap ease."  

Crickets. 

 How did I know I needed this? Well, it was tight, so I unpicked the top of the basted sleeve caps, and let it gape.  There was about 5/8" gap between the seam lines.

Once I got the sleeve cap height sorted, muslin 1.5 (same bodice, new sleeves) was MUCH better.  Except, well, sleeves were slightly tight across the biceps.  I could stand demurely, but there was no muscle flexing happening.  You know, as you do.  So....

4.  Added 1/2" strong arm adjustment.

Doesn't that sound better than a big bicep adjusment? 

For muslin 2, I incorporated bodice changes, kept the higher sleeve cap, and spread the bicep about 1/2".  Much better, but it could be a tad more comfortable.  So, for my final version...

5. I ended up extending the biceps another 1/2".  

Which honestly, may be a touch too much, but you can't knock being able to move your arms in all directions.  You never know when Miss Moneypenny will need to tangle with secret spies.

6.  I did not in any way, shape or form lengthen the sleeves.

Scroll back up to the top there to peek; they fit me great, but I typically lengthen sleeves.

So, fitting drama (not really) sorted, I only have one actually complaint about this pattern.

The bow.

Sigh.

Now, I love me some Sewaholic Patterns.  

They go together nicely, and the directions are clear and concise.

However, maybe the issue here was me, and maybe the issue was sewing late at night, but I re-read those bow instructions about 97 times.  I even made the bow (half-assedly) on two different muslins.

In the end, I still don't know that I did it right.

But the only other way I could imagine didn't seem right, either.  

The directions for version C has you attach bias and finish the neckline before adding the button placket.  Then add the placket, fold right sides together and stitch across the top.  Turn right side out, and finish the back.  Makes sense on view C, but on the bow version, um, the neckline isn't finished.  But whatevs, I clipped into the seam allowance so I could do that, and attach the tie.  

Okay, so fold the tie right sides together, sew edges, turn right side out and...

handstitch the entire inside of the collar?  

I don't know that it would've been any easier to attach the tie before the placket, either.  

I may play around with attaching the tie like a band, then using bias to cover the raw edge next time.  Or, I may wait until someone posts the correct way to do this? 

Here's what I did.  Go look at that illustration again.

And tied.

If you're in the know, or have a better idea, whisper to me in the comments, please.

Sugarplum Fairies

If there ever was a fabric that reminded me of Sugarplum Fairies, it's this one.

It's got pink, it's got flowers, it seems Russian with the intricate design in bright colors on a dark background.  

Or maybe it's just that it's reeeallly cold out.

Details: 

Pattern: Burda 6984

Fabric: Art Gallery cotton voile 

Notions: one 3/8" button, Fraycheck

Temperature outside: 6 degrees F (-14 C)

Notes:

Oh, Burda.  You are just like that cute boy in school that you think is really cute, but who is just so obtuse, that you never really know if they like you back.  Or maybe that they LIKE you, they just don't LIKE-LIKE you.  You live in bewildered yes/no/idunno for a couple of weeks before ultimately deciding it's just not worth it, and you move on to liking someone easier.  

This pattern is for the most part, pretty straightforward...I don't know why they never give button sizes on the envelope, though.  Granted, it's not hard to hold a button up there to look and see if it will work, but if you're sifting through a random button tub, a little guidance would be appreciated.  A sign, or something, guy? For what it's worth, the binding at the neckline is 3/8" wide; I used a 3/8" button.  

1/4" button would work, too

The neckline is what drew me to the pattern, honestly.  I did squint and see that the neckline pleats go over the top of the drawing, but totally did not get from the 2"-high technical line drawing that the neckline pleats have an exposed raw edge at the neckline.  Huh.  That part of the instructions is on page 3, by the way.  The neckline is bound, but the binding weaves under the pleats.  I played their game with the binding, but decided in the end to fold my extra seam allowance over the top of the binding to tuck the raw edge inside.  

Fray-checked that edge...

You know why I had so much seam allowance to do that?  The printed patterns kindly include 5/8" seam allowances everywhere, but at the neckline and sleeves, you're instructed to cut them off.  Huh. 

Ooookaaay.

I did.  And it was fine.  But way to be all-or-nothing, there, Burda.

Anyway, it was fun while it lasted.  

I think.

Happy 2015! (+ new stuff)

    I hope everyone enjoyed the holidays and spent plenty of time with family and friends!  The past two weeks of break have been much needed, and I absolutely loved that I was able to see everyone over the holidays.  2014 seemed like a rough, long haul there at the end! Between my youngest starting preschool and my husband's shoulder surgery, blogging took a back seat over the past couple of months. 

 And I'm okay with that.

So this is not a Year in Review post.

This is a...

Top 5 Things I've Made Since My Last Post and Haven't Yet Shared
Post

#1 Details

Pattern: Simplicity 2060

Fabric: Tula Pink Prince Charming cotton voile

Notions: 7 buttons from magic stash

Time to complete: who knows?  

Notes: 

This is like the billionth time I've made this pattern.  But the first time I'm happy with the fit.  I went up a size, and the arms fit much better. They're still drafted with a relatively high sleeve cap, which freaks me out a bit.  I actually made this blouse once before in this fabric, and when I just couldn't deal with the tight armscye fit in the other version, I bought more of this fabric on etsy.

Seriously, I know this is a busy print, but I swear, it goes with 90% of my closet.

Also, I added an inch to the sleeve length to account for monkey arms, completely changed the cuffs (drafted my own), and conquered sleeve plackets using this tutorial from threads.  I also completely admit to making 3 samples, and having to print off an extra paper copy to origami fold so I could figure out what was going on. Who knew they were so tricky?

Movement is not restricted, but you can see what I mean about the close fitting sleeves. I need to slash and spread at the bicep a squidge.

Asymmetrical buttons, and not too shabby button holes.  3 on shoulder seam, 2 on each cuff. Found in a unmarked baggie in the button drawer.  Weird.

Sleeve Placket achievement unlocked!

#2 Details

Pattern: Simplicity 2054
Fabric: bright green ponte from Girl Charlee
Notions: none
Time to complete: probably not very long

Notes:

Eh, it's a big long t-shirt.

I need a slip.

I did bring in the side seams a bit at the waist.  Next time, (if), I'll taper in the sleeve seams between the elbow and wrist, too.  They're a bit too loose to push up and stay.

Crazy back/side view, and I have no idea what I'm doing with my hand.

#3 Details

Pattern: Burda 7123
Fabric: Theory medium weight stretch cotton sateen (Mood, I think)
Notions: interfacing for waistband and an invisible zipper
Time to complete: a couple of evenings to fit, involving a run to mom's for wrinkle assessement

Notes:
There are only three pattern pieces, so there's not much too much to say construction wise.  I started with a size 16ish, and skinnied everything but the hips.  I consulted a number of print sources for wrinkle-diagnosis on the back thigh, but to be honest, these are super comfortable to sit in, even criss-cross-applesauce. The hems are just serged, folded up once, and invisibly stitched.

Considering no one is going to be staring at this view, it's not as bad as it looks.

I took in the seam allowance on just the back inseam, and it marginally helped, but taking in too much screwed up the fit across my rear and through the rise.  I will keep at these, but I honestly don't believe these are meant for a smooth, wrinkle-free view, and I wasn't aiming for a jeans-fit.

Side view

Interior view

#4 & 5 Details

Pattern: Jennifer Lauren Vintage Bronte Top
Fabric: Kaufman Laguna stretch jersey (gray), cotton lycra blend or something from Girl Charlee (blue)
Notions: none
Time to complete: an evening and a bit for each

Notes:
I honestly can't remember which shirt I made first, but I remember struggling a bit with figuring out the sleeve, and where the center top should line up with the shoulder-no-seam. I did not lengthen the sleeves, and they are perfectly cozy.  My measurements put me between sizes, and I chose to go up. And I'm glad I did.  The blue version has that length of sleeves because that's exactly what I could get out of one yard.  Damn Girl Charlee and their whole yard purchasing requirement.

A smart person would just order two whole yards, but I prefer remaining stubborn.
I don't wanna have extra leftovers.

I did not put buttons on the bands, even though I think they're cute, because I just couldn't pick any.  I may yet, as I think they would help tack down the band to help it lay more smoothly, and not flip up when I get all excited with my arms.

So that's that.  My goals for the new year are to keep on keepin' on.

Happy New Years!

37 and Stephen King

I had a birthday this week, which always calls for a little introspection.

When I was younger, I always imagined my life would be more glamorous.  Honestly, I also imagined I would have bigger boobs.  (Bigger hair and longer fingernails, too, but that's beside the point. There may have been shoulder pads in that fantasy, too.)   My hair hasn't lived up to expectations, but in the last month I've broken a dishwasher, cleaned a chimney, and fixed a toilet. So screw glamour, I have skillz.

I've also made this dress twice this month.  

The first was, well, a failure.  

I used a navy cotton/poly blend that was just too stiff for this pattern.  When I tried it on, my husband remarked that the sleeves stuck out like judges' robes.  And, considering I skipped a muslin, the waist was way too big, the neck was way too low, and there was just no recovering from that.  

The Details

Pattern: Simplicity 1801

Fabric: Joel Dewberry rayon (sooo not warm for November), and cotton lawn for underlining

Notions: 14" zipper and interfacing, as you do

Time to complete: eh, a couple of days, plus a couple more

First worn: to a conversation with Stephen King

Pattern alterations:

1) I raised the neckline about an inch, if not a squish more.  Holy hell.  Here's where bigger boobs may have come in handy.  All was cool if you were looking straight on, but the minute I leaned forward, it was a straight shot clear to my belly button.  For reference, the point of the V ended at the top of the bridge of my bra.  In theory, fine, but not a great look for work, yo.

2) Um, the waist band.  I cut a size 14, as that size was pretty close to my bust/waist measurements.  In the interest of clarity, that's 36" and 28" respectively.  When I couldn't figure out how the first version ended up so huge, I went back and measured the pieces; as drafted, for a 28" waist, the finish measurements produced a 32 1/2" waist band.  Who in the hell needs more than 4" of ease in a waist band, much less a  waistband that is sandwiched between a gathered top and skirt?!  And framed with loose gathered-y sleeves? 

I looked brick-shaped.  Like a brick-shaped judge.  With disappointing cleavage.

Not.Flattering.At.All.

Needless to say, I graded in about 1/2" on each side seam at the waist.

And switched to a drapier fabric.

back view

A- invisible zip insertion.

I give credit to a pretty good color match.

the inside scoop

I have exactly one picture of it on.

My beautiful sister with a signed copy of his new book, and me, squinty-eyed.

I meant for this to be my birthday dress, but it ended up being a Stephen King dress instead.

Which is cool.  I guess. 

In a way, I didn't know what to expect from Stephen King, either.

Which was coming out donned in a Royals hat...

...and leaving with a little bit of rock and roll.

It's pretty awesome getting old.