37 and Stephen King

I had a birthday this week, which always calls for a little introspection.

When I was younger, I always imagined my life would be more glamorous.  Honestly, I also imagined I would have bigger boobs.  (Bigger hair and longer fingernails, too, but that's beside the point. There may have been shoulder pads in that fantasy, too.)   My hair hasn't lived up to expectations, but in the last month I've broken a dishwasher, cleaned a chimney, and fixed a toilet. So screw glamour, I have skillz.

I've also made this dress twice this month.  

The first was, well, a failure.  

I used a navy cotton/poly blend that was just too stiff for this pattern.  When I tried it on, my husband remarked that the sleeves stuck out like judges' robes.  And, considering I skipped a muslin, the waist was way too big, the neck was way too low, and there was just no recovering from that.  

The Details

Pattern: Simplicity 1801

Fabric: Joel Dewberry rayon (sooo not warm for November), and cotton lawn for underlining

Notions: 14" zipper and interfacing, as you do

Time to complete: eh, a couple of days, plus a couple more

First worn: to a conversation with Stephen King

Pattern alterations:

1) I raised the neckline about an inch, if not a squish more.  Holy hell.  Here's where bigger boobs may have come in handy.  All was cool if you were looking straight on, but the minute I leaned forward, it was a straight shot clear to my belly button.  For reference, the point of the V ended at the top of the bridge of my bra.  In theory, fine, but not a great look for work, yo.

2) Um, the waist band.  I cut a size 14, as that size was pretty close to my bust/waist measurements.  In the interest of clarity, that's 36" and 28" respectively.  When I couldn't figure out how the first version ended up so huge, I went back and measured the pieces; as drafted, for a 28" waist, the finish measurements produced a 32 1/2" waist band.  Who in the hell needs more than 4" of ease in a waist band, much less a  waistband that is sandwiched between a gathered top and skirt?!  And framed with loose gathered-y sleeves? 

I looked brick-shaped.  Like a brick-shaped judge.  With disappointing cleavage.

Not.Flattering.At.All.

Needless to say, I graded in about 1/2" on each side seam at the waist.

And switched to a drapier fabric.

back view

A- invisible zip insertion.

I give credit to a pretty good color match.

the inside scoop

I have exactly one picture of it on.

My beautiful sister with a signed copy of his new book, and me, squinty-eyed.

I meant for this to be my birthday dress, but it ended up being a Stephen King dress instead.

Which is cool.  I guess. 

In a way, I didn't know what to expect from Stephen King, either.

Which was coming out donned in a Royals hat...

...and leaving with a little bit of rock and roll.

It's pretty awesome getting old.

In the Pink

Work is, officially, still kicking my butt right now.  

But that doesn't mean I haven't been stealing minutes here and there to sew.

It just means those minutes are fewer and farther apart, and that sometimes, I choose to use those minutes to gork on the couch with Nutty Bars instead.

The back of this coat needs a belt/sash, but it's wearable for now.

This friend needed some loving, and I couldn't make him wait.  : )

The Details:

Pattern: Sewaholic Robson, minus the storm flaps, shortened by 8 inches, and with pockets raised by 1 inch.  Otherwise; Sewaholic Robson.  Sizewise, I cut a 10 through the shoulders/bust, and graded to an 8 at the waist and hips.

Fabric: hot pink wool and poly polka dot lining, both from Fabric Recycles, a local fabric store that buys and resells stashed fabric and notions

Notions: medium weight fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, 16 buttons, 2 spools of thread, copious amounts of steam, chocolate cake, yard beer

Time to complete: about 3 1/2 pounds (see above re: chocolate cake and yard beer)

Necessary tools: bamboo point turner, big block of cedar fencing and a couple of pieces of oak hardwood flooring scraps to use as clappers, steam, steam, and more steam, and a walking foot.

Sources referenced: The Singer Sewing Manual, by Mary Brooks Picken, copyright 1962 (ish), The Sewtionary, by Tasia St. Germain, copyright 2014.

So, about this coat: I decided I should try bound buttonholes.  

On a coat with eight button holes.

Try them, they're fun! my mom said.

Spoiler alert:

Fun! would've been one.  Maybe two.  Perhaps even three.

Eight was work.

 

Enter stage right: The Sewtionary.  I ordered this book in April or May, and the pictures are really nice.  I love that the samples she used to demonstrate techniques were on patterns I already owned, or at least was familiar with.  After a couple of tester buttonholes, I was good to go and knocked out the eight buttonholes pretty quickly.  Use lots of steam to press the bulk flat is the only tip I'd pass on that wasn't in the book--otherwise I'd give it 5 stars: great eye candy + informative + useful.

The problem came when I tried to make life harder for myself and line the coat.  I used the same basic coat pattern pieces, but cut the back piece on the fold, and folded in the excess seam allowance into an inverted box pleat.  Then attached the facing pieces to the shell, and attached it the jacket as you would in bagging a lining.

And, um, I hadn't yet cut the windows for the backs of those button holes.

I wish I could tell you I figured out a trick that may change your life, but really it was careful marking, cutting, and 2 evenings of handstitching on the couch while watching The Roosevelts on PBS.

Tip to change your life? Cut and press those windows before attaching the facing? Or handstitch the lining to the facing after the button holes are done?  Your guess is as good as mine, as I am not motivated right now to experiment with that.  Leave tips the comments, please!  

Easy pattern addition: a petersham ribbon hanging loop.

(Stole Repurposed the ribbon from a Boden shoe bag.)

Sleeve cuff tab!  

And finally, we all know it: Hidden polka dots are the next best thing to exposed polka dots.

Maybe even better.

I've got polka dots that you don't even know about.

Let's Do this Again

Simplicity 1419 again, that is.

Last time I mentioned I thought the neckline was too high; this time, I fixed it.

'Cause I can.

And I added stitching at the neckline...

'cause I can.

And in linen (wrinkly linen at that)...

'cause I can.

That it all.

Radio Silence

Holy cow!  School started about a month ago, and believe me when I say this is my first gasp at a full breath in about five weeks.  It's pretty usual for the start of a new school year to be pretty helter skelter, but this year in particular feels like I'm only holding on for dear life!  I'm not going into details here, mainly because a) that'd be like reliving all over again, b) that would take a whole 'nother bottle of wine, and c)  no one wants to read about someone complaining about work.  Isn't that why we read blogs?  So we don't have to think about work?

Since I was last here, this child, this one right up there, started preschool.  

How is that even possible?! 

This one is back for second grade.

(Sorry for the grainy phone pic, but that is seriously the best smile I've gotten photographic evidence of for quite some time...)

And me?  Perpetual 7th grade.

I'd apologize for the post-work, post-dinner, post-homework, the-sun-will-set-in-20-minute photos, but you know what they say, 

"You get what you get, and you don't throw a fit." 

Also? 

Life's too short.

The Details

Fabric: something cotton canvas-y I purchased at Hancock's about 8 years ago, tried to make into a failed skirt, and recently resurected. It may, honestly, be light home dec.

Pattern: Simplicity 1419, but just the skirt part. 

 I'd say I drafted a waistband, but really, I just cut a really big rectangle.

Notions: interfacing, a zip from the inherited stash

Notes:

Because of limited fabric, I knew I wouldn't be able to match across seamlines.  I didn't care so much about the sides, but thought it might be too much craziness across my butt.  I decided to cut the back pattern piece on the fold, and added an exposed zipper into a slot, basically following this tutorial.  

They had me at "The Full Monty".

Also, can I say I'm impressed I had a zipper that exactly matched that blue in my inherited stash?

(The zipper may look/feel/actually be 175% labratory created, but hey, it's basically a free skirt.)

The sweater is also a perfect match, but I can't claim that.  

I can claim, however, being asked by a student if I'd put it on backward.

Hmm.  

Kid must be working with my husband.

In other news, I've been working on a new coat for the last I don't know how long.

It's hot pink Sangria wool, not nearly as eye-blindingly bright as pictured below.

I'm including this "proof-of-life" photo in order to help motivate finishing.

 If you don't hear from me in a while, it's because I decided to try bound button holes, and haven't yet worked out if I should finish bagging the lining and THEN hand finish the button holes, or if I should attach at least 1/2 the 16 buttons before finishing the lining and buttonholes, or if I should finish the top stitching along the front, then cut buttonholes, and then finish the lining.  Feel free to weigh in. 

Also? I don't intend there to be nearly as many Legos on the floor 

when I finally get to wear it out of the house.