Tuesday, March 4, 2014

"Where's Waldo?"

Okay, so I was sewing along with the Project Sewn themes, and rocked my Twiggy dress.  And by "rocked it", what I'm really saying is, "I finished it."  Then came the pink project, and I faltered.  Long story short, it broke me.  This is not that dress though.



The Details:

Notions: 1/2" knit stabilizing tape for neckline, 1/2" clear elastic for stabilizing shoulder seams

Notes: 

     This is the third fourth time I've made this shirt, and each time I messed around with the neckline.  I think the pattern calls for you to draft a strip to face the inside with, but who reads Burda instructions?  On this one, I used knit stay tape (this one)on the wrong side of the neckline, serged the edge, folded it under, and top-stitched it.  Previously, I used clear elastic to stabilize the neckline; mostly because using the folded under strip for facing seemed too bulky.  If you're wondering, the clear elastic works, too. On yet another version, I added a funnel neck collar, which also worked.  
    
That none of these others are blogged is more a testament to my picture taking than my sewing.  But here's the best I've got of the funnel-neck one: 


Yes, that's a Batman mask, and I'm laying on the floor.

     Back to this one, I also think the pattern may call for you to stabilize the armhole seams, 
but I didn't do that either.  And it's fine.

All I can focus on is that *&^% broken bead and the slightly askew stripe matching...and now that's all you can, too...  
   
Construction wise, I serged everything, and coverstitched the sleeves and hems.

Glorious hem...

At the end of the day, I usually come home, take off my cute shoes, and put on slippers.  


Can you tell the slippers happened before the pictures?

And as for Waldo?  Only one student alluded to that elusive man all day.  I call that a win.  : )

Thursday, February 6, 2014

Project Sewn: Fashion Icon Challenge

4 surprise snow days + last minute inspiration = down-to-the-wire submission

I had the pattern; I had the fabric, I had the time....all I needed was the big fake eyelashes to 
unleash my inner Twiggy. 

Well, Twiggy style.


I tried to "Twiggy" pose, but was lost, so here goes:




The Facts: 


Pattern: Simplicity1609, the "Jiffy" Dress
Fabric: Inherited cotton/wool blend, which admittedly was silkier before I washed it.  Oops.
Notions: 22" zipper, interfacing, hem binding, and big fake eyelashes.


Here's a gander at the back: 



Details: 
So, this is actually the second time I screwed up the directions on this pattern, but at least this time, I screwed it up better.  I prefer to put zippers in flat, so I did that again, contrary to directions.  So in order to attach the facings neatly, I sewed the back facing to the back piece neckline and sleeves, and the front facing to front neckline and sleeves.  Then, I sewed the shoulder seams of the outside only, and handstitched the facing seams closed.  Much easier than the crazy origami thing I did last time.  But it does look clean. : )

Also, I used a lapped zipper instead for a Twiggier (more vintage) look, and hacked an extra 2" off the hem.

If I might add in here, I thought this would be easier fabric to use than the linen I used last time, and it mostly was, but good Lord, matching up those checks along the front seam about drove me crazy.  It's a good thing the snow just kept coming, because I probably re-did that seam 4 times.  Then I remembered that perfectionism is a disease, and declared it close enough.


I really have to thank my grandma for her wonderful taste in fabric--this stuff is awesome, and I had just enough for this.  The woven houndstooth pattern made it super easy to hide my handstitches for the invisible hem.  Plus, it is toasty warm, especially when paired with a wool sweater and tights.

In fact, my 6 year old told me I looked so beautiful when I came down for pictures, that I should wear this to work, and I will...maybe without the eyelashes, though.


My neighbor helped take most of the pictures for me, but before we stopped, my husband took this last one.

And in return...


I'm off to Project Sewn to check out the other amazing creations.

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

My Kingdom for a Button


I am ashamed to admit that this skirt has sat in my UFO pile for over a year, and all it really needed was the button.  Well, that and the button hole.  I resolved not to go into the new year with a bunch of UFO's hanging (flying?) overhead, and while washing fabric for what I really wanted to sew, resolved to suck it up, grit my teeth, and jump in with whatever it took.

This was one of my first experiences with a Burda Style printed pattern, and it has everything you love and hate about the Burda pattern experience in a convenient, no tape necessary format--great style, interesting details, and vague/poorly worded directions.  It should have been a clue when the envelope called for a 6" zipper and a button.  Did you catch that?  A button.  What size?  I guess that was for Burda to know, and me to find out.

The Facts:

Pattern: Burda Style 7252
Fabric: lightweight ivory wool, ivory bemberg lining
Notions: 6" zipper, interfacing for waistband, 2" button, rayon seam binding for hem, 3 hooks*
Time to Complete: 1 year, 2 months, most of which were spent folded in time-out the UFO pile.

After searching and searching for an appropriate sized button to fill the band, I ended up at the last minute finding one at Kaplan's.  At 1 3/8", it was the perfect combo of size and color.  Of course, though, the largest buttonhole template I have is 1 1/8".  Sigh. So, I dug out the instruction manual on how to make a buttonhole for a larger sized button.

In case you're wondering, you do 1/2 the button hole, like a "U", readjust the placement, and then do the other "U".  It was tense.


And there's the problem, right there.  After spending all that time in the waiting room, it has grown snug.  Clearly, it's the skirt's fault for shrinking, and not mine for growing, but one of us is going to need to start running again if we plan to continue this relationship.  

Also, for pictures, I added 2 hooks and thread-chain eyes at the top and point of the overlap, but it clearly needs a little help there at the bottom of the overlap to help it lay flat.  Me minus 5 pounds would help, or I could scooch the button a smidge.  

We'll see which actually happens first.




All that aside, I'm not sure how comfortable I feel in this skirt.  I realize the directions have you invisibly stitch those two under pleats together to conceal the slot zipper opening, and I chose to forgo that, but I feel like this skirt draws attention to my rear.  Unnecessary attention?

Also, it is lined, but you can still clearly see my sweater through the material in the top photo.  Am I being too picky?  I would normally solve that by not tucking things in, but I feel like the whole point of this skirt is to show off the waist.  Add that to the uncomfortable list, too--the waist.  I'm always slightly neurotic that I look like Ed Grimley in things that sit at my natural waist, and I tend to overcompensate with un-tucking.

Looking at these pictures helps, but is there a cure for the Ed Grimley's? 
Or do I just let this one go?

Monday, February 3, 2014

When Life Gives You Skinny Jeans, Fight Back

 According to a completely unscientific and most likely inaccurate poll performed just last week, less than 5% of middleschoolers actually wear pants.*



Add to this a recent (well, a couple of months ago) horrific shopping excursion for said pants, and one can only come to the conclusion that I live in a pants desert.

After shopping on line, even Boden had let me down, with my options being narrowly defined as "straight", "skinny", or God-forbid: "super skinny".  

Fine.  I'll buy your straight leg pants, but I'm not through.  
I'm sure there's a pattern out there somewhere for what I want.



The Facts:

Fabric: Kaufman Ibiza cotton/spandex twill, from Fabric.com, + leftover cotton scraps for facings and 
pockets
Notions: 9" zipper, 1 black 3/4" button, 1 clear button, interfacing


The details:

Uh, actually, I made these shorts last summer, and spent some time dinking with the fit then.  At that time, I ended up adding length to the crotch at the back inseam.  On these, in stretch fabric, they were huge, and I ended up taking in the inseams by about 1/2", and also the outer leg seam by about the same.  That may not have been the right thing to do, as they might have stretched a bit as I sewed them, and they're a bit snug now that they've been washed again.  





I top-stitched the darts and around the back welt pockets, as well as the inseam and along the hip to just below the pockets, because I wanted a more casual look to wear with sneakers.  I also top-stitched the waistband, and went with a regular button front rather than a concealed hook.

And I added a 7th belt loop right at the center back.  And serged off the the back extension and top-stitched that seam, too.  But that's it, really.  

Also, those wrinkles under the butt drove me nuts for about a week. I think they're there for movement, but I'm open to suggestions on what to fix for the next pair.  Also, is that rear seam too snug?  It doesn't FEEL snug...but like I said before, give me free tips, please.  I ask my husband, and just get, "Looks great."

Hmm.

Verdict?  They're not perfect, but they'll do.  

"Oh, good.  The trash men are here."



*Data was obtained by frequency count of students walking past my classroom in the hall after dismissal, wearing pants that were neither leggings nor jeans.  For the purpose of this study, sweats and track pants were also excluded.  As were shorts, because that's ridiculous.  It's January in Missouri, people.
Estimated sample size is about 250 students; approximately 5 met the criteria defined for 'pants'.

** I like skinny and straight leg styles, too, but a person craves a little variety in her leg styles, right?  Also, full disclaimer: Not all shirts work with skinny jeans.  Or if you plan to wear knee socks.

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